Reading progress update: I've read 209 out of 303 pages.

Savage Summit: The True Stories of the First Five Women Who Climbed K2, the World's Most Feared Mountain - Jennifer Jordan

“Chantal didn’t take care of herself,” Thor said, remembering a few bacchanals at K2 Base Camp where she ended up blind drunk. “She wasn’t a safe climber,” he said, but he was painfully honest about why he, an accomplished high-altitude climber and guide, would trust his life to her. “I climbed with Chantal because I was in love with Chantal, not because I thought she was safe.”

After K2 he never climbed with her again, trying to heal his battered ego and heart. Nonetheless, over ten years later Kieser spoke with awe of the love he felt. “Chantal was Helen of Troy: the face that launched a thousand ships. The face that launched a thousand climbers.”

That's a pretty damning description.